Information on Chinese silk including the legends of
the origin of the silk, silk culture, spread of the silk throughout the
world, and some interesting facts about silk.
The cultivation of the silkworm can be traced back to the 3 rd century
BC. It was said that Demigod Leizu, a legendary figure of prehistoric
China, started the planting of mulberry trees and raise of silkworms.
According to archeological discovery, silk and silk fabrics emerged at
least 5,500 years ago. In the Zhou dynasty, special administration was
set up to manage sericulture and silk production. From 138 B.C. to 126
B.C., Zhang Qian started his diplomatic mission under imperial order to
the west along the famous Silk Road. Gradually, sericulture and silk production
techniques spread to many countries. Now, Chinese silk still enjoys high
reputation in the world.
Embroidery
Embroidery always accompanies silk and its development. The most famous
embroideries in China are Su embroidery in Jiangsu, Xiang embroidery in
Hunan, Shu embroidery in Sichuan and Yue embroidery in Guangdong, namely
Four Renowned Embroideries.
Su Embroidery
Suzhou Embroidery appeared in the Northern Song Dynasty and was briefly
named Su embroidery. According to history records, Su embroidery was so
popular in the Song dynasty that people even named their lanes with names
concerned with silk and embroidery. Almost every family raised silkworm
and embroidered. Su embroidery reached its peak in Qing dynasty.
Su embroidery has wide range of themes. Its techniques include single
face embroidery and unique double-face embroidery, which looks the same
from either side. Simple composition, clear theme, vivid image and gentle
color are basic features of delicate Su embroidery. Now it even absorbs
some western painting techniques.
Xiang Embroidery
Combining merits of Su embroidery and Yue embroidery with local embroidery,
Xiang embroidery came into being in the later Qing dynasty. However, Hunan's
local embroidery had a long history. Archeologists have discovered fine
silk embroidery items in the Chu and Han Tombs, which were both more than
2,000 years ago.
Compare with the other embroideries, it is unique in style. Its unique
embroidery techniques facilitate tiger patterns embroidery, which Xiang
embroidery is famous for. Although it features techniques of painting,
engraving, calligraphy and embroidery, it is generally based on the Chinese
painting. Now, it has developed a new unmatched embroidery product - Double-face
and Different Images Embroidery, which features different images and colors
on each side of the transparent chiffon.
Shu Embroidery
As it is mainly produced around Chengdu, Sichuan province, it is also
called Chuan Embroidery. It has a long history although it formed a style
in the middle of the Qing dynasty. The materials adopted for such embroidery
are local-produced soft satin and colorful threads. The threads are neatly
and thickly used and the colors are elaborately arranged. It is characterized
by even stitches, bright threads, closeness and softness in texture, delicate
needling. Its theme covers mainly animals and plants in the nature, especially
adept at embroidering pandas and fish. The embroidered products include
mirror curtain, wedding dress, hats and shoes etc., with the main themes
of auspicious happiness.
Yue Embroidery
It is also called Cantonese Embroidery for it is produced in Guangdong
province. It is said that it was created by a minority people in the middle
and at the end of the Ming dynasty. A variety of threads are used, including
thread twisted from the peacock quill and down thread from the horsetail.
The whole piece is bright in color with gold thread as the contour for
embroidering complicated patterns, looking splendid. Such themes are usually
employed as A Hundred Birds Displaying Homage to The Phoenix, marine products
and melons.
Silk Goods
Originated in the primitive society, silk skills are one of great Chinese
contributions to the world development. It demonstrates the brilliant
civilization of ancient China. According to the different weaving skills
and silk fabrics, silk goods are divided to many types, such as brocade,
satin and so on. Historically, most of these silk goods served as clothing
material and decorations. However, the common people, who once produced
excellent silk skills and goods, could not afford this expensive material
because of poverty.
Chinese Embroidery Pouch
Hebao, the Chinese name of embroidery pouch, was named after the original
name of an ancient food, although it really was a bag for containing things
instead of a food for eating.
There are several meanings of embroidery Pouch: 1. It refers to a bag
woven out of stain and cloth. The outside of embroidery pouch is embroidered
while the inside has a thick layer. It was popular with people as gift
to express friendship and souvenir. In daily life, it can be used for
containing thins, such as watch, wallet, mirror, tobacco and fan.
In China, as a custom, a girl began to learn embroidery at the age of
about seven. When married, the pouches made by the girl would be given
to the relatives and friends as a gift or manifestation of her deftness
in handwork.
Secondly, on the Dragon Boat Festival, Chinese people often insert Chinese
mugwort to exorcise the five poisonous creatures. When the girls made
pouch, they also filled it with mugwort and perfumed grass.
Thirdly, pouch also served as a gift between young girls and boys as a
symbol of love.
Cloud Brocade
Due to the high-quality silk and exquisite skill were used, this kind
of brocades look like colorful cloud, hence the name Cloud brocade. From
the Yuan dynasty to the Ming dynasty, Cloud brocade was mostly used for
imperial clothing material.
Dai Brocade
As its name suggests, Dai brocade is the product of Dai minority.
Early in the Han dynasty, they have produced muslin, a kind of cotton
cloth, which was classified to cotton and silk brocades.
Different from the smooth development of cotton brocade, the growth of
silk brocade had experienced several undulations. The cotton brocade takes
the yarn of original color as its material while the silk brocade is woven
by the weft dyed in red or black.
Dong Brocade
It is a brocade of the Dong minority. Taking yarn and silk as its
materials, the Dong brocade can be woven with one or two materials of
these two. Featured by its patterns, which mainly are flora, fauna and
Chinese characters, this kind of brocade commonly served as the material
for child's sleeveless garment, quilt facing, scarf, etc.
Li Brocade
Produced by the people of Li minority living in Hainan Island, this
kind of brocade mainly served as the material for women's tube- shaped
skirt, bag, etc. Woven with cotton yarn and silk thread, Li brocade was
once called as "Li cloth" and "Li curtain" in the
Song dynasty.
Lu Brocade
Mainly produced by people in the south and north of Shandong province,
this kind of brocade is featured by its bright color and strong texture.
It was in the 1980's that Lu brocade experienced a large progress and
gradually catered to the need of the modern life.
Miao Brocade
Made by the people of Miao minority, this kind of brocade is popular
in Guiding, Guizhou province. It is used as ornament for the collar, front
and sleeve of woman's garment, as well as the material for daily costume
and quilt.
Sichuan Brocade
Produce in Chengdu, Sichuan province, in Han dynasty, Sichuan brocade
is the main branch of the traditional silk brocade. Since Sichuan and
the middle China was linked up, the brocade-making skills were spread
throughout China. With more and more designs, patterns, and colors applied,
Sichuan silk brocade had flourished in Tang, Song, and Yuan dynasties.
Especially in Tang dynasty, Sichuan brocade produced a large number of
marvelous goods, in which the bundle flower lining brocade and the red
lion and phoenix lining brocade were magnum opus of this period.
Yao Brocade
As the History of Xiangzhou recorded, Yao minority is the originator
of Yao brocade. The main patterns of Dong brocade are flora and fauna
or geometrical grains. Woven with dyed yarn or silk thread, these beautiful
brocades are widely used by Han people as dowry when the girls are married.
Not all brocades are suitable to the festive occasions. In some places,
brocades with different colors have different meanings. Such as in Quanxiu,
Guangxi province, the red brocades suggest happiness and propitious, while
the orange or green brocades imply mourning and sadness.
Suzhou Brocade
Produce in Suzhou, Jiangsu province, this kind of brocade was the
most famous brocade in China. It once was lost at the end of the Ming
dynasty, but soon revived at the beginning of the Qing dynasty. Suzhou
brocade was characterized by the harmonious colors and geometrical patterns.
It is divided to big brocade and small brocade according to the size.
Big brocade, also called heavy brocade, mainly served as mounting picture
and decoration, while the small brocade is used as decorations for small
articles.
Zhuang Brocade
Produced in the Guangxi province, it is a brocade of the Zhuang minority.
Taking the silk down and locally produced silk threads as materials, the
articles such as quilt facing, tablecloth, and scarf are woven on the
weaving machine, which operated by one woman. The patterns on the Zhuang
brocade are mainly figures, flora and fauna and geometrical grains.
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